Türk bayan vücut ölçülerine dayalı yeni bir giysi kalıp çizim sisteminin geliştirilmesi
Küçük Resim Yok
Tarih
1994
Yazarlar
Dergi Başlığı
Dergi ISSN
Cilt Başlığı
Yayıncı
Ege Üniversitesi
Erişim Hakkı
info:eu-repo/semantics/closedAccess
Özet
190 4. ÖZET Kadın giysi tasarımına yönelik antropometnk veri temin etmek ve bunların analizi ile Türk kadın ölçü standartlarının geliştirilmesi amacıyla gerçekleştirilen bu çalışmada Ege, Marmara, Akdeniz ve tç Anadolu Bölgelerinin çeşitli illerinde bünyesinde çok sayıda kadın eleman bulunduran firmalarda çalışan 20-55 yaş grubu içinde yer alan çeşitli meslek ve gelir düzeyindeki kadınlar ömeklem grubu olarak seçilmiştir. Ömeklem grubundaki denekler üzerinden alınan antropometrik ölçüler değerlendirilmiş ve bu ölçülere dayalı vücut ölçü standartları saptanmıştır. Ayrıca Türk kadın vücut ölçülerinden hesaplanan oransal değerler ile antropometre ile ölçülen bazı derinlik ve genişlik ölçülerini de içeren vücut ölçülerini esas alan yeni bir kalıp çizim tekniği de önerilmiştir. Veriler, 913 yetişkin Türk kadını üzerinden tek tek ölçüm yapılarak temin edilmiştir. Bu ölçümlerde 236 deneğin herbinnden 52 vücut ölçüsü, diğer deneklerden ise herbirinden 35 vücut ölçüsü olmak üzere toplam 35967 vücut ölçüsü elde edilmiştir. Elde edilen bu verilerin, normal dağılım gösteren bir kitleden gelip gelmedikleri Kolmogrow-Smirnow testi yapılarak araştırılmıştır. Yapılan testler sonunda, dağılımın normal olduğu anlaşılmıştır, her ölçüye ait ortalama, standart sapma, standart hata, minimum, maksimum, değişim katsayısı, çarpıklık, basıklık katsayıları ve medyan değerleri (Tablo 3.1.; Tablo 3.2) ile yüzdebir değerleri (Tablo 3.3; Tablo 3.4) gibi özet istatistikler hesaplanmıştır. Ölçülerarası korelasyon katsayıları hesaplanmış, (Tablo 3.7; Tablo 3.8) kilo ile çevre, genişlik ve derinlik ölçülen arasında, boy ile yükseklik ölçüleri arasındaki ilişkilerin önemli olduğu saptanmıştır. Verilerle ilgili bir dizi analiz ölçülerarası ilişkileri araştırmak amacıyla yapılmıştır. Bunlardan faktör analizi alt beden, üst beden ve tüm vücut ölçüleri için ayn ayrı uygulanmıştır. Alt beden ölçüleri için anahtar boyut olarak boy ve kalça çevresi ölçüsü, üst beden için ise dış beden çevresi ve boy ölçüleri anahtar boyut olarak saptanmıştır. Alt ve üst beden ölçülerinin birleştirilmesi ile oluşturunar vücudun391 tüm ölçüleri çevre, derinlik ve genişlik ölçülerini içeren bir faktör ile boy dahil çeşitli vücut yüksekliklerim ve uzunluklarını içeren bir ikinci faktör tarafından temsil edilmiştir. Bu iki faktör yapısını temsilen seçilen vücut ölçüleri regresyon analizlerinin temelini oluşturmuştur. Regresyon analizlerinde amaç, ölçülerarası ilişkilerin derecesini saptamak ve faktör gruplarını temsilen seçilen değişkenler dışında kalan ölçüleri, seçilen bu değişkenler cinsinden hesaplayabilme olanaklarını araştırmaktır. Faktör analizi sonuçlan paralelinde üçlü ve ikili olarak gerçekleştirilen regresyon analizleri faktörleri en iyi temsil eden ölçü almaşığının göğüs çevresi, kalça çevresi ve boy olduğunu göstermiştir. Sonuç olarak göğüs çevresi, kalça çevresi ve boy değişkenleri bilindiği takdirde, diğer ölçüler bu değişkenler cinsinden hesaplanabildiği için üçlü regresyonlarla elde edilen denklemlerin yeterli olduğu görülmüştür. Standartlar saptanırken bu durum gözönünde tutulmuş, standart kategorileri boy, göğüs çevresi, kalça çevresi değişkenleri esas alınarak belirlenmiştir. Beden aralıklarının 4 cm olarak belirlendiği bu sistemde uzun, kısa ve orta olmak üzere üç boy grubu ve göğüs çevresi kalça çevresi arasındaki ilişkiye göre de üç kalça tipi belirlenmiştir. Normal kalça tipine göre diğer tiplerdeki kalça çevresi ölçülen arasındaki fark 6 cm ve kalça çevresi ölçüsünde bedenlere karşılık gelen kalça çevresi ölçüleri arasındaki farklar ise 4 cm olarak saptanmıştır. Her boy grubunda, üç kalça tipine göre tasarlanan dokuz standart kategonsindeki ikincil ölçüler hesaplanarak standart vücut ölçü tabloları elde edilmiştir (Tablo 3.23-3.24). Türk kadın vücut ölçülerini esas alarak hazırlanmış standart ölçü tablolarındaki bazı temel ölçülerin, Alman, İngiliz ve.Amerikan kadınlann ölçülerine göre hazırlanmış standart ölçü tablolanndakiler ile karşılaştıniması sonucu Türk kadınlarının vücut boyutlan ve formu açısından önemil farklılıklara sahip olduğu saptanmıştır. Vücut boyutlarında ve formundaki bu farklılıklar dikkate alındığında mevcut çizim sistemlerinde kullanılan kabullerin Türk kadınları için hazırlanacak kalıpların çiziminde kullanılmasının bazı uyum ve estetik bozukluklara neden olacağı ortaya konmuştur.192 Mevcut kalıp çizim sistemleri incelenerek bu sistemlerdeki eksiklikler saptanıp, gerçek vücut ölçülerini kullanan yeni bir kalıp çizim sistemi önerilmiştir- Bu çizim sisteminde çevre ölçülerinin ön ve arka beden bölümlerine oranlarının hesaplanmasında vücut genişliği ve derinliği ölçülerini esas alan geometrik bir yaklaşım yapılmıştır. Göğüs, bel ve kalça hatlarındaki vücut kesitleri farklı eksantrikliğe sahip büyük çaplan boyunca birleştirilmiş iki yan elips olarak kabul edilip, bu kabule göre kesiti oluşturan elipslerin eksantinklikleri değiştirilerek, vücut üzerinden alınan çevre ölçüsünü sağlayan yan çevre uzunluklan hazırlanan bir bilgisayar programı ile hesaplanmıştır. Hazırlanan bu bilgisayar programına göğüs, bel ve kalça için ortalama ölçüm değerlen giriş bilgisi olarak tanımlandığında, göğüs çevresinin % 51.5'i bedenin ön tarafinı tanımlayan elipsin yan çevre uzunluğunu, % 48.5'i bedenin arka tararım tanımlayan elipsin yarı çevre uzunluğunu vermiştir. Bel ve kalça çevresi için ön ve arka bedeni tanımlayan elipslerin yan çevre uzunluklan ise sırasıyla % 54.6, % 45.4, % 42.5 ve % 57.5'tir. Çalışma, önerilen sisteme göre üst beden ve kol temel kahplannın (Şekil 3.9; Şekil 3.10) nasıl hazırlanabileceğini gösteren bir örnekle sonuçlandırılmıştır
193 SUMMARY In this work which has been realised for the purpose of developing the body measurement standards of Turkish women wherein anthropometric data as per the design of ladies' wear through their analysis, women working in companies and organisations that employ large numbers of women employees in a variety of cities and towns in the Aegean, Marmara, Mediterranean, and Central Anatolian regions are selected as sample group. Special emphasis is given that the subjects so selected are within the age group from 20 to 55, and that they represent a wide range of occupational and income groups. Anthropometric measurements so obtained are evaluated in order to set up body measurement standards. Furthermore, a new pattern drafting system is proposed based on the ratios calculated by the use of body measurements of Turkish women, which also includes some depth and width measurements as measured the anthropometer. The data have been obtained from 913 mature Turkish women by making individual measurements. Fifty-two measurements have been taken on each one of the 236 of the subjects and thirty five on the remaining subjects, making a total of 35967. The data obtained have been tested by carrying out Kolmogrow-Smirnow test to establish whether these data come from a population showing normal distribution. As a result of the tests carried out it has been seen that the distribution is normal, and the discriptive statistics much as the mean, the standard deviation, the standard error, the minimum, the maksimum, the coefficient of variation, the skewness, the Kurtosis and the median values (see Tablo 3.1; Table 3.2) as well as the percentile figures (see Tablo 3.3; Tablo 3.4). The correlation coeefficients between the measurements have been calculated (Table 3.7; Table 3.8) and it has been found that the correlation between the body weight and circumference, width and depth measurements and that between body height and other height measurements are significant. A series of analyses have been carried out for the purpose of establishing the relationships amongst the measurements. Factor analysis is used in the lower torso, upper torso, and whole body measurements separately. The key dimensions established are hight and hip circumference for lower torso, whereas for the upper torso they are outer body circumference and hight. The whole body measurements as combined by bringing together both the lower and upper torso measurements, are represented by a factor194 which is comprised of circumference, depth, and width on the one hand, and a second factor which includes various height and length measurements as well as total height. The body measurements chosen so as to represent these two factor structures have been used as the bases for the regression analyses. Regression analyses are attempted with the aim of defining the mtermeasurement relationships, as well as establishing the possibility of calculating those measurements, other than the ones selected to represent the factor groups, in terms of the selected ones. Three and two variables regression analyses which have been realised in line with the results of the factor analysis have shown that the measurement set which best represents the factors is the bust circumference, hip circumference, and height. Consequently, when bust circumference, hip circumference and height variables are known, it is seen that the equations obtained with three variable regressions are adequate since the other variables can be calculated in terms of these. This situation has been taken into account in the preperation of the standards and the standard categories have been defined as based on body height, bust circumference and hip circumference as basic variables. In between each bust size group there is a difference of four centimetres and there have been defined three stature groups as tall, short, and medium, and in view of the relationship between the bust circumference and the hip circumference there have been established three hip types as slender, regular, and full. There is a difference of four centimetres between each bust size of the same height group, whereas the difference between each hip type which corresponds to each size of the bust measurements. The secondary measurements in the nine standard categories, as designed to have three hip types in each of the height groups, have been calculated and thus the standard body measurement tables have been obtained (Tables 3.23-3.24). Some of the basic measurements from the standard Tables based on measurements taken from the aforementioned Turkish women have been compared with those from the standard measurement Tables prepared from the measurements of German, British, and American women. Body dimensions and forms of Turkish women show some important differences from these of the other. It has, thus, been made plain that when the assumptions in the present pattern drawing systems are used195 in drawing patterns to be utilised for Turkish women, certain problems of fit and aesthetics will arise. It is proposed here a new pattern drawing system wherein real body measurements are employed, having examined the present pattern drawing systems and having evaluated the deficiencies existant in these systems. In this proposed system a geometrical approach has been attempted as based on the body width and body depth which are used in the calculations of the ratios of circumferences to front and back pattern parts. The body cross sections along the lines of bust, waist, and hip are regarded as two half elipsces with different eccentricities being joined together along their larger diametres. A computer programme has then been devised in order to evaluate the half circumferences that will eventually yield the whole circumference measurements. The eccentricities of the said ellipses that form the cross section in question are altered systematically for the purpose of the computer evaluation of the half circumferences. When the bust, waist, and hip average measurements are entered into the programme as input values, the calculations have shown that 51.5 % of the bust circumference yields the half circumference of the ellipse that describes the front torso whereas 48.5 % of same yields half circumference of the ellips that describes the back torso. As for the waist and hip circumferences, the relevant front and back half circumferences of the ellipses are 54.6 %, 45,4 %, 42.5 %, and 57.5 % respectively. The work is concluded with a sample trial shown in Figure 3.9-3.10 that illustrates how the basic patterns for the upper body and arm block patterns can be prepared.
193 SUMMARY In this work which has been realised for the purpose of developing the body measurement standards of Turkish women wherein anthropometric data as per the design of ladies' wear through their analysis, women working in companies and organisations that employ large numbers of women employees in a variety of cities and towns in the Aegean, Marmara, Mediterranean, and Central Anatolian regions are selected as sample group. Special emphasis is given that the subjects so selected are within the age group from 20 to 55, and that they represent a wide range of occupational and income groups. Anthropometric measurements so obtained are evaluated in order to set up body measurement standards. Furthermore, a new pattern drafting system is proposed based on the ratios calculated by the use of body measurements of Turkish women, which also includes some depth and width measurements as measured the anthropometer. The data have been obtained from 913 mature Turkish women by making individual measurements. Fifty-two measurements have been taken on each one of the 236 of the subjects and thirty five on the remaining subjects, making a total of 35967. The data obtained have been tested by carrying out Kolmogrow-Smirnow test to establish whether these data come from a population showing normal distribution. As a result of the tests carried out it has been seen that the distribution is normal, and the discriptive statistics much as the mean, the standard deviation, the standard error, the minimum, the maksimum, the coefficient of variation, the skewness, the Kurtosis and the median values (see Tablo 3.1; Table 3.2) as well as the percentile figures (see Tablo 3.3; Tablo 3.4). The correlation coeefficients between the measurements have been calculated (Table 3.7; Table 3.8) and it has been found that the correlation between the body weight and circumference, width and depth measurements and that between body height and other height measurements are significant. A series of analyses have been carried out for the purpose of establishing the relationships amongst the measurements. Factor analysis is used in the lower torso, upper torso, and whole body measurements separately. The key dimensions established are hight and hip circumference for lower torso, whereas for the upper torso they are outer body circumference and hight. The whole body measurements as combined by bringing together both the lower and upper torso measurements, are represented by a factor194 which is comprised of circumference, depth, and width on the one hand, and a second factor which includes various height and length measurements as well as total height. The body measurements chosen so as to represent these two factor structures have been used as the bases for the regression analyses. Regression analyses are attempted with the aim of defining the mtermeasurement relationships, as well as establishing the possibility of calculating those measurements, other than the ones selected to represent the factor groups, in terms of the selected ones. Three and two variables regression analyses which have been realised in line with the results of the factor analysis have shown that the measurement set which best represents the factors is the bust circumference, hip circumference, and height. Consequently, when bust circumference, hip circumference and height variables are known, it is seen that the equations obtained with three variable regressions are adequate since the other variables can be calculated in terms of these. This situation has been taken into account in the preperation of the standards and the standard categories have been defined as based on body height, bust circumference and hip circumference as basic variables. In between each bust size group there is a difference of four centimetres and there have been defined three stature groups as tall, short, and medium, and in view of the relationship between the bust circumference and the hip circumference there have been established three hip types as slender, regular, and full. There is a difference of four centimetres between each bust size of the same height group, whereas the difference between each hip type which corresponds to each size of the bust measurements. The secondary measurements in the nine standard categories, as designed to have three hip types in each of the height groups, have been calculated and thus the standard body measurement tables have been obtained (Tables 3.23-3.24). Some of the basic measurements from the standard Tables based on measurements taken from the aforementioned Turkish women have been compared with those from the standard measurement Tables prepared from the measurements of German, British, and American women. Body dimensions and forms of Turkish women show some important differences from these of the other. It has, thus, been made plain that when the assumptions in the present pattern drawing systems are used195 in drawing patterns to be utilised for Turkish women, certain problems of fit and aesthetics will arise. It is proposed here a new pattern drawing system wherein real body measurements are employed, having examined the present pattern drawing systems and having evaluated the deficiencies existant in these systems. In this proposed system a geometrical approach has been attempted as based on the body width and body depth which are used in the calculations of the ratios of circumferences to front and back pattern parts. The body cross sections along the lines of bust, waist, and hip are regarded as two half elipsces with different eccentricities being joined together along their larger diametres. A computer programme has then been devised in order to evaluate the half circumferences that will eventually yield the whole circumference measurements. The eccentricities of the said ellipses that form the cross section in question are altered systematically for the purpose of the computer evaluation of the half circumferences. When the bust, waist, and hip average measurements are entered into the programme as input values, the calculations have shown that 51.5 % of the bust circumference yields the half circumference of the ellipse that describes the front torso whereas 48.5 % of same yields half circumference of the ellips that describes the back torso. As for the waist and hip circumferences, the relevant front and back half circumferences of the ellipses are 54.6 %, 45,4 %, 42.5 %, and 57.5 % respectively. The work is concluded with a sample trial shown in Figure 3.9-3.10 that illustrates how the basic patterns for the upper body and arm block patterns can be prepared.
Açıklama
Bu tezin, veri tabanı üzerinden yayınlanma izni bulunmamaktadır. Yayınlanma izni olmayan tezlerin basılı kopyalarına Üniversite kütüphaneniz aracılığıyla (TÜBESS üzerinden) erişebilirsiniz.
Anahtar Kelimeler
Tekstil ve Tekstil Mühendisliği, Textile and Textile Engineering, Beden ölçüleri, Body measurements, Kadın giysileri, Woman clothing, Kalıp hazırlama teknikleri, Pattern preparation techniques, Kalıp sistemleri, Pattern systems
