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AnMePa: development of a new method for preparing trousers pattern by using the antropometric measurement system
(Emerald Group Publishing Ltd, 2024) Kilic, Arzu Sen; Unal, Can; Ondogan, Ziynet
PurposeThis study establishes the principles and process steps of a new basic trousers pattern using measurements obtained according to the rules of the anthropometric measurement system. The newly developed pattern-making system in this study will be called the Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System (AnMePa). It is aimed at producing trousers that are more fitting to the body, thanks to this pattern-making system.Design/methodology/approachIn this research, four pattern-making systems used in many parts of the world were compared with the Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System (AnMePa) with regard to the overall appearance and body fit of trousers prepared according to these systems. 10 virtual mannequins (VM) with different adult female body measurements were created, and trousers patterns were prepared for these mannequins. The trousers' patterns were made and dressed on the mannequins in a 3D virtual dressing system. The body fit of the virtual garments was evaluated by five experts. The scores given by the experts were evaluated using the fuzzy logic method.FindingsAccording to the results, it is seen that the new basic trousers pattern developed by utilizing the anthropometric measurement system, AnMePa, provides the best body fit among the basic trousers patterns created according to the other examined pattern-making systems. The combination of 3D virtual dressing and fuzzy logic in the evaluation of garment body fit is considered an innovative method for the future of fashion design and production.Originality/valueIn the developed AnMePa, unlike the existing pattern-making systems, values that can be associated with the body measurements of individuals in a way that could be suitable for each community were used instead of constant values in the pattern-making process. Furthermore, the integration of 3D virtual fitting and fuzzy logic in assessing garment fit is considered a pioneering approach with significant implications for the future landscape of fashion design and production.
COMPARATIVE DETERMINATION OF PHYSICAL AND FASTNESS PROPERTIES OF GARMENT LEATHERS TANNED WITH VARIOUS TANNING MATERIALS FOR LEATHER SKIRT PRODUCTION
(Ege Universitesi, 2014) Ork, Nilay; Ozgunay, Hasan; Mutlu, Mehmet Mete; Ondogan, Ziynet
In the present study, physical and fastness properties of the leathers, which are obtained from two different tanneries, similarly processed in each tannery however, differentiated from each other by tanning with chromium, vegetable and chromium-vegetable combinations and planned to be used in skirt manufacture were determined with various quality control and analysis methods and evaluated by considering their field of use. Additionally it was statistically investigated whether there is a significant difference between the physical characteristics of leather depending on the type of tanning material used. Consequently, it was deduced that the type of tanning material used in leather production has statistically significant effect on the physical characteristics of the leathers which are produced from the same origin.
Development of a New Incontinence Containment Product and an Investigation of Its Effect on Perineal Dermatitis in Patients With Fecal Incontinence: A Pilot Study in Women
(Hmp, 2019) Leblebiciglu, Hulya; Khorshid, Leyla; Ondogan, Ziynet; Ozturk, Gunseli
Research related to the design and development of new incontinence containment products for women is scarce. PURPOSE: the purpose of this 2-part study was to 1) develop a new incontinence containment product for fecal incontinence and 2) examine the effect of this new product on the occurrence of incontinence-associated dermatitis (IAD). METHODS: in part 1, a new incontinence containment product was designed, developed, and trialed among 10 healthy female volunteers. the product was comprised of a double layer of polypropylene nonwoven fabric and 100% cotton interlock fabric with a 3-ply 100% cotton interlock fabric added into the perianal section. Participants wore the product for 8 hours and were asked to defecate into the product and evaluate its comfort, ability to contain liquids and protect privacy, any personal allergic reaction, and air permeability. in part 2, after any product modifications, 12 bedridden women treated in the neurology unit of a hospital in western Turkey who had an indwelling urinary catheter and fecal incontinence and who did not have diabetes mellitus, a darkly pigmented area in the perianal area, pressure injury, or erythema were randomized to 2 groups (study product and control, a premium adult diaper) and monitored for 8 days for the development and severity of perineal dermatitis (scored from 0 [no erythema] to 4 [broken, abraded skin]) using a skin assessment tool. Any type of erythema was considered IAD. Skin care (cleansing with a washcloth and water) was provided daily and after each defecation to all study participants. Data were collected via paper-and-pencil completion of the perineal skin integrity assessment and patient observation forms and entered into and analyzed by a computerized statistical program. Fisher's exact test and the chi-squared test were used to analyze the difference in IAD incidence and severity between the 2 groups, and the Mann Whitney U test was used to detect differences in the number and consistency of defecations. RESULTS: No statistically significant differences were noted among the characteristics of the 12 participants (6 in each group) except for age; patients in the study product group were significantly older (70.66 +/- 10.36 vs 52.20 +/- 16.78 years; P <.05. Four (4) patients in the study group exhibited 13 areas of perineal dermatitis (degree 1 = 6 areas; degree 2 = 6 areas; degree 3 = 1 area; and degree 4 = 0); 1 patient in the control group had 4 areas with degree 1. CONCLUSION: This prototype product is not sufficient to be used in clinical practice in patients with fecal incontinence, but further study in a larger population is warranted.
DIFFERENCE OF SURFACE DERMATOFAGOID ALLERGEN CONCENTRATION ON 0-2 YEARS AGE GROUP AND BABY AND CHILDREN CLOTHES MANUFACTURED FROM VARIOUS FABRICS
(Ege Universitesi, 2010) Unal, Zumrut Bahadir; Ondogan, Ziynet; Yuksel, Hasan
Allergic illness based on home dust affects not only the life style of the adults as well as the life quality of the children. Mites are found in all kinds of home textile products and clothing. The main reason that triggers the asthma illness in babies and children is these bugs called mites which cannot be seen with naked eye. In this study, the factors that cause allergic effects due to textile clothing are aimed to be investigated in the most used baby underwear. With this purpose, underwears produced from six different kinds of knitted fabrics worn to each child for three days were investigated. Under the light of this study, the most appropriate fabric types were determined in order to prevent asthma in children based on mites.
THE EFFECT OF DIFFERENT TYPES OF FABRIC ON THE CLOTHING COMFORT, SLEEP PATTERN AND SALIVA CORTISOL & MELATONIN LEVELS OF INFANTS
(Ege Universitesi, 2015) Utkun, Emine; Ondogan, Ziynet; Yalaz, Mehmet; Yildirim Sozmen, Eser
Infants' health must be cared about in order to raise healthy generations. The way that infants can grow healthily is that they wear healthy, safe and comfortable clothes. The purpose of this study is to develop clothes intended for the clothing comfort of infants, to improve the product variety and quality of infant clothes, and also to research how the clothes affect infants. In conclusion of this study, it was confirmed that different fabrics had different reactions on the infants' bodies.
THE EFFECT OF DIFFERENT TYPES OF FABRIC ON THE CLOTHING COMFORT, SLEEP PATTERN AND SALIVA CORTISOL & MELATONIN LEVELS OF INFANTS
(Ege Universitesi, 2015) Utkun, Emine; Ondogan, Ziynet; Yalaz, Mehmet; Yildirim Sozmen, Eser
Infants' health must be cared about in order to raise healthy generations. The way that infants can grow healthily is that they wear healthy, safe and comfortable clothes. The purpose of this study is to develop clothes intended for the clothing comfort of infants, to improve the product variety and quality of infant clothes, and also to research how the clothes affect infants. In conclusion of this study, it was confirmed that different fabrics had different reactions on the infants' bodies.
THE EFFECT OF DIFFERENT TYPES OF FABRIC ON THE CLOTHING COMFORT, SLEEP PATTERN AND SALIVA CORTISOL & MELATONIN LEVELS OF INFANTS
(Ege Universitesi, 2015) Utkun, Emine; Ondogan, Ziynet; Yalaz, Mehmet; Yildirim Sozmen, Eser
Infants' health must be cared about in order to raise healthy generations. The way that infants can grow healthily is that they wear healthy, safe and comfortable clothes. The purpose of this study is to develop clothes intended for the clothing comfort of infants, to improve the product variety and quality of infant clothes, and also to research how the clothes affect infants. In conclusion of this study, it was confirmed that different fabrics had different reactions on the infants' bodies.
EVALUATING AND DEFINING BODY MEASUREMENTS ACCORDING TO ANTHROPOMETRIC MEASUREMENT TECHNIQUE FOR LOWER GARMENT PATTERN PREPARATION
(Ege Univ, 2016) Sen Kilic, Arzu; Ondogan, Ziynet
In apparel industry, preparing garment patterns accurately is one of the most important factors in the production of fit garments. While body measurements are being taken, it is necessary to use the anthropometrical measurement technique which represents the human body in numerical units. Within the scope of this study, the Contec, Muller, Metric and Basic Blocks Pattern Preparing Systems, which are widely used, are examined and the measurements, which are required for lower body basic pattern preparation, are determined. These measurements' definitions are stated according to anthropometric measurement technique. Besides, new anthropometric points for two measurements, which are not defined in anthropometric technique, are defined. It is thought that these newly defined measurements will be used in preparation of lower garment pattern effectively. An implementation which shows the necessity for using the newly defined measurements is conducted in this study.
Evaluating the Efficacy of Cosmetic Textiles in Skin Hydration and Cellulite Management Through Wear Trials
(MDPI, 2024) Necef, Ozlem Kurtoglu; Ondogan, Ziynet; Tama Birkocak, Derya; Boz, Serkan; Sen Kilic, Arzu; Boyaci, Bekir; Ertam Sagduyu, Ilgen
This study aimed to develop and evaluate cosmetic textiles integrated into sportswear to enhance skin hydration and reduce the appearance of cellulite. The research involved the creation of leggings and long-sleeve shirts treated with microencapsulated natural extracts targeting moisture and anti-cellulite effects. A total of 18 healthy female volunteers participated in the wear trials with a control group and an experimental group wearing the microencapsulated garments. The participants underwent a standardized training procedure, and their skin's moisture level and cellulite (orange peel) appearance were assessed using Tewameter measurements and thermal imaging. Additionally, dermatological clinical evaluations were performed. The results demonstrated that the microencapsulated products significantly improved skin hydration and reduced cellulite grades compared to the control group. All nine participants in the microencapsulated group displayed negative values for the appearance of orange peel skin, whereas two of the nine participants in the control group exhibited negative cellulite levels, one showed a positive value, and six showed no change at all. Statistical analyses also confirmed the efficacy of the microencapsulated garments. The study highlights the potential of cosmetic textiles in providing added value to sportswear by offering functional skin benefits during physical activity.
Fitting Evaluation of Pattern Making Systems According to Female Body Shapes
(Inst Chemical Fibres, 2014) Tama, Derya; Ondogan, Ziynet
In order to provide clothing fit, it is necessary to associate garment patterns with body shapes. In this study, basic skirt patterns werecreated using the Computer Aided Design (CAD) system according to Contec, Metric, Muller, and Basic Blocks Pattern Making Systems in order to evaluate fit. These patterns are dressed up on virtual mannequins which have been created in the three-dimensional (3D) virtual sewing and try-on system. The mannequins' sizes (38) and body dimensions are specified according to international size charts. Besides this the body shapes are selected as hourglass, triangle, or rectangle. The fit is evaluated according to pressure and tension maps, which are the tools of the 3D virtual sewing and try-on system. Although the mannequins are in same the size, different results are obtained for each body shape. Also different results are acquired for each pattern making system. Consequently it can be said that the pattern making systems are not suitable for each body shape.
Investigating the Effect of Recycled Cotton Included Fabrics on the Thermal Behaviour by Using a Female Thermal Manikin
(Sciendo, 2022) Necef, Ozlem Kurtoglu; Birkocak, Derya Tama; Kilic, Arzu; Boz, Serkan; Abreu, Maria Jose; Ondogan, Ziynet
In recent years, with the increase in global awareness of environmental problems, the term sustainability became more important for apparel manufacturers and consumers. Therefore, recycling of wastes plays a significant role in environmental sustainability by converting the wastes into raw materials. This study focused on recycled cotton-included fabrics, to evaluate the effect of these fabrics on thermal comfort properties. In this context, first, the 45% recycled cotton/55% polyester blended yarns and 50% virgin cotton/50% blended yarns were obtained. Afterwards, single jersey and rib-structured fabrics were knitted using these yarns. The thermal comfort tests were performed on the fabrics and four long sleeve rounded neck shirts then were manufactured using these fabrics to test by the thermal manikin method. Results showed that the yarns including recycled cotton led to a decrease in the values in air permeability of the fabrics and in the effective clothing insulation of the garments. In contrast, it was observed that, including recycled cotton increased the thermal resistance values of the fabrics.
Investigation of the cosmetic effects of pattern design and wearability in sports bras
(Emerald Group Publishing Ltd, 2023) Yilmaz, Elif; Ondogan, Ziynet; Kilic, Arzu Sen
PurposeThis study aims to develop a sports bra with cosmetic microcapsules that supports the breasts and provides an aesthetically upright and lifted posture by using 28 days period.Design/methodology/approachA fitting process was carried out on provided seamless sports bras to determine the criteria that have to be improved considering the desired properties. The new sports bras were produced after the pattern design was developed; cosmetic microcapsules were applied to some of the bras and some were used as a control group to compare the real cosmetic effects. Female subjects tried the newly developed sports bras in a 28-day wear trial. Measurements were taken at certain periods during the wear trials, and the obtained data were analyzed statistically.FindingsThe findings of this study determined that the product provides a decrease in breast girth and increases skin moisture and nipple height after 28 days of regular use due to the effect of cosmetic ingredients released from microcapsules. A great majority of subjects found the breast lifting and supporting property of the sports bra successful and were satisfied with the new shape of the subjects' breasts.Originality/valueFitting studies were carried out directly on the female body, and the designed and developed encapsulating type sports bra has been transformed into a cosmetic textile product that gains also cosmetic properties. The cosmetic effects of the bra were investigated with wear trials. On the other hand, the nipple height measure term was defined for the first time and added to the literature within the scope of the study.
AN INVESTIGATION ON THE CUTTING PARAMETERS FOR VARIOUS TYPES OF FABRICS
(Ege Universitesi, 2012) Boz, Serkan; Ondogan, Ziynet
Same type fabric and same cutting plan can be cut in different methods by using computer aided fabric cutting systems. This is possible with changing the parameters inside the program which is operating the cutter. In this research; the effects of cutting parameters on the cutting quality and the cutting duration were analyzed. In this study, six different cutting having different models and fabric characteristics were examined. During the study; it was seen that same parameters can sometimes be used while cutting of different fabric types; but change in the parameters is required generally according to fabric, model, marker plan and spreading. Especially, while determining vacuum intensity that will be applied to the cutting of the different type fabrics, fabric air permeability were measured and the correlation between fabric air permeability, spreading height and the vacuum intensity that will be applied were presented. Fabric type, marker plan, spreading height and clothing model characteristics are determinative elements for determining cutting parameters. Cutting efficiency and quality can be increased and possible defects can be prevented with changing the cutting parameters by the operator.
MANUFACTURE OF LEATHER SKIRT FROM GARMENT LEATHERS TANNED WITH VARIOUS TANNING MATERIALS AND EVALUATION OF VISUAL PROPERTIES
(Ege Univ, 2017) Ork, Nilay; Ozgunay, Hasan; Mutlu, Mehmet Mete; Ondogan, Ziynet
In this study, effect of material on usage and visual properties on an apparel product produced from leathers tanned with different types of tanning materials, was evaluated. For this purpose, skirts were manufactured from chromium, semi-vegetable and vegetable tanned leathers obtained from two tanneries. Skirt patterns were prepared by using Computer Aided Design (CAD) and Computer Aided Manufacturing (CAM) systems. Leather skirts were evaluated by specialists by using subjective rating scale and the obtained data were analyzed by fuzzy logic method. As conclusion of this study; when visual effects of these skirts were evaluated, it was observed that skirts produced from chromium tanned leathers had better results than the skirts produced from the leathers tanned with other types of tanning materials.
Research on sportswear buying behavior of university students
(E D P Sciences, 2016) Ondogan, Ziynet; Sen Kilic, Arzu; Boz, Serkan; Tama, Derya; Encan, Berna Cureklibatir; Necef, Ozlem Kurtoglu; Caliskan, H; Onder, I; Masal, E; Besoluk, S
Sport is a necessary element for maintaining life in a healthier and more balanced way. There has been a rising trend of wearing sportswear in daily life besides sports. Developments in technology have raised expectations from sportswear. Individuals expect not only durability, design and being fashionable, but also demand performance and clothing comfort. This study aims to investigate university students' awareness while buying sportswear. Professional sportsmen from Physical Education and Sports School students and Textile Engineering students having technical knowledge about clothes are included in this study. 100 students from each group were interviewed face to face. Results showed that Textile Engineering students pay more attention to technical characteristics due to their knowledge, however, aesthetic properties are revealed to be another important factor affecting buying decision. Buying decision of Physical Education and Sports School students is expected to be positively affected if they are given a seminar about raw material properties.
A research on the properties of various types of commonly used lining fabrics
(Inst Natl Cercetare-Dezvoltare Textile Pielarie-Bucuresti, 2013) Pamuk, Oktay; Ondogan, Ziynet; Yildiz, Esra Zeynep; Necef, Ozlem Kurtoglu
Linings are textiles used to cover the inner side of the garments. They are functional parts of the garment, and are used to maintain the shape of the garment, to improve the comfort of the wearer, to cover the inside of the garment of complex construction. In order to investigate and compare physical properties of commonly used lining fabrics, 9 different lining fabrics were supplied for the experiment. The data obtained from the experiments was evaluated statistically. In the scope of the results, the effects of fabric density, yarn count and material type on properties of the lining fabrics were analyzed and compared. Lining fabrics which are denser and include thicker yarns have smoother surfaces, lower air permeability and higher tensile strength. 100% acetate fabrics were found smoother than 100% polyester fabric, whereas the tensile strength results were found opposite. Increasing density and yarn count in lining fabric structure caused an increase in the thickness values of linings.
A research on the properties of various types of commonly used lining fabrics
(Inst Natl Cercetare-Dezvoltare Textile Pielarie-Bucuresti, 2013) Pamuk, Oktay; Ondogan, Ziynet; Yildiz, Esra Zeynep; Necef, Ozlem Kurtoglu
Linings are textiles used to cover the inner side of the garments. They are functional parts of the garment, and are used to maintain the shape of the garment, to improve the comfort of the wearer, to cover the inside of the garment of complex construction. In order to investigate and compare physical properties of commonly used lining fabrics, 9 different lining fabrics were supplied for the experiment. The data obtained from the experiments was evaluated statistically. In the scope of the results, the effects of fabric density, yarn count and material type on properties of the lining fabrics were analyzed and compared. Lining fabrics which are denser and include thicker yarns have smoother surfaces, lower air permeability and higher tensile strength. 100% acetate fabrics were found smoother than 100% polyester fabric, whereas the tensile strength results were found opposite. Increasing density and yarn count in lining fabric structure caused an increase in the thickness values of linings.
SEWABILITY PROPERTIES OF LINING FABRICS
(Ege Universitesi, 2011) Pamuk, Oktay; Kurtoglu, Ozlem; Tama, Derya; Ondogan, Ziynet
The purpose of a lining is to provide the comfort of the wearer, preserve the shape of a garment, conceal construction details and raw edges of fabric, thus giving a neat appearance to the inside of the garment. In this study, it was aimed to research the sewability properties of main lining fabrics by using the L&M Sevrability Tester. Six types of linings were used and they were grouped according to their warp and weft densities, yam count and fabric composition. Three groups were generated by considering variations of the warp density, weft density or yam count, while the other parameters were constant. At the end of the study, it has seen that, yarn count and density have a direct influence on the sewability values of lining fabrics. Also it was observed that sewing needle penetration force of lining fabrics were affected by the fabric density in both directions and yarn count.
A study about garment collection preparation steps and quality control methods
(Inst Natl Cercetare-Dezvoltare Textile Pielarie-Bucuresti, 2013) Necef, Ozlem Kurtoglu; Ondogan, Ziynet
In this paper, the mainly defined factors such as color, fabric, model of a commercial collection which was prepared for a commercial brand were examined. Five t-shirt designs existing in the collection were chosen and all the collection preparation step details, aesthetic and technical quality control methods from design to final garment were observed in a medium-size apparel company. The achieved results showed that for preparing a successful collection, first of all, the quality control steps must be determined for each style, and then both aesthetic and technical quality controls should be made by qualified people. There has not been enough study about garment collection preparation steps in the literature. The results of the study will be helpful to apparel manufacture industry for preparing better and quality collections.
A study about garment collection preparation steps and quality control methods
(Inst Natl Cercetare-Dezvoltare Textile Pielarie-Bucuresti, 2013) Necef, Ozlem Kurtoglu; Ondogan, Ziynet
In this paper, the mainly defined factors such as color, fabric, model of a commercial collection which was prepared for a commercial brand were examined. Five t-shirt designs existing in the collection were chosen and all the collection preparation step details, aesthetic and technical quality control methods from design to final garment were observed in a medium-size apparel company. The achieved results showed that for preparing a successful collection, first of all, the quality control steps must be determined for each style, and then both aesthetic and technical quality controls should be made by qualified people. There has not been enough study about garment collection preparation steps in the literature. The results of the study will be helpful to apparel manufacture industry for preparing better and quality collections.

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